When you go to Fallow for the second time – and there will be a second time – take a bunch of friends. This sustainable restaurant right here in London is one too good not to share.
We took a chance that there would be an early supper table at this Heddon Street restaurant and we lucked out. We went with no expectations and left raving about everything.
Early Life
Always late to the party these days, this beauty opened in March 2020, just days before the world shut down. Chefs Jack Croft and Will Murray met over vegetable preparation at Dinner by Heston Blumenthal and forged their friendship with a commitment to creating a sustainable restaurant here in the capital. They were joined by James Robson and Fallow was born. A series of sold-out pop ups helped give Fallow its permanence and place on the London food scene.
The Vibe
Just off St James’ the restaurant is revealed to us via a heavy velvet curtain – attempting to keep out any wind generated by Storm Henk. It did its best but to thoroughly enjoy your food make sure you’re not near the door. Inside you can expect a sleek curved bar, Tom Dixon melt pendant lamps, deep wood and floral displays that showcase foraged plants and seaweed. Even better there’s a buzz about the place, excited faces and quite a lot of expression – or maybe that was just our table.
Chefs beaver away behind a glossy marbled bar where diners can sit on high chairs watching the action.
There’s an impressive wine list with offers of tasting certain opened bottles – Mr is in seventh heaven – but exceptional knowledge from the head sommelier.
The Food
The menu is broadly modern British. Split into a variety of sections which include Breads, Snacks, Plant, Small Plates, Sea, Cocktails, UK Ex Dairy Cow, Land and Sides – you get the basic vibe.
Signature Dishes
Not a pair to favour the signature dishes – we tried what we fancied and for us that always involves meat. IF you’re a signature-dish-kinda-diner then you will want to go straight to the corn ribs (flash fried and dusted with kombu seasoning). Or, the mushroom parfait (think a vegetable whipped to nursery smoothness fooling the diner they’re eating chicken livers). Then there’s the fallow deer tartare (venison chopped accordingly and tossed in a black garlic, sorrel and mustard mayonnaise).
Cod’s Head
For main course you should think about the cod’s head – a part of the fish otherwise discarded (again this sustainable restaurant lives up to its pledge) – brined, cooked over charcoal, and dressed with a sriracha butter sauce and green onion oil. Think sweet and plentiful cod cheeks. How do I know if I didn’t order it? I made friends with the Japanese visitors sitting next to us. In return for the occasional photo of them with their plates of wonderfulness I took a photo of said plates in return. I also watched them deftly pick out the pockets of cod, they left no bone unsucked.
Drinks begin with what Mr describes as an exceptional Margarita. I have a glass of fizz.
Retired Dairy Cows
We choose Miso coated baby back ribs (Smoked Beef Ribs £13) which are inhaled, the unctuous meat drips off the bone and the salty miso’s a match-made-in-heaven.
We hadn’t had steak for some time and the sirloin (£38) was winking heavily. It’s again here that this sustainable restaurant comes into its own. Fallow use the meat of retired dairy cows. They buy in the whole carcass and butcher different parts to use it on their ever-changing menu. Ultimately too, the meat is dry-aged for 35 days, and it is tender and full of flavour. A charred pickled chilli drizzled in beef fat and chimichurri added a little something to the meatiness of it all. The side of fries (£7.00) were a must-have of the triple-cooked variety with a Kombu seasoning.
Hash Browns
You absolutely must try the Truffle Hasbrowns (£8.00) (sorry if you hate Truffle) these were revolutionary in that they’re nothing like hash browns but the best fried potato you’ll try ever with shaved winter Truffle as a crown.
Stuffed to the gills but with a robust dessert menu on offer we opted for the Fallow Black Forest. Cocoa husk, Somerset merello cherries (£16) which was just ridiculous in flavour. A gifted additional plate of Chelsea Tart was overstepping the mark (£14) but the most delicious copper coloured crème, tasted slightly tart and malty, made using whey.
A restaurant who charges just £2 for sparkling filtered water gets a huge tick in our book.
Shout out to one of the best Maitre D’s in the capital (and definitely one for your L’il Black Book) – Kevin Lansdown– who manages this establishment much the same as all the others he’s been in charge of – including – The Ivy and Scott’s.
Our bill including 15% service (two complimentary cocktails and one dessert £165.30)
Fallow, 52 Haymarket, London, SW1Y 4RP
Opening times: Monday to Friday 07:30-11pm
Saturday: 10am to 11pm
Sunday: 11.30am to 10pm
Read my review on Gradz bread. Their bakers have developed hand-crafted traditional bread with today’s tastes and health benefits.
